Stacker Jacket

 

I have finally got around to making myself a version of the Stacker Jacket.

This cropped boxy jacket pattern from Papercut Patterns has been around for a few years now.

It wasn't until I made my daughter her version, that I realised how much I like it and how versatile it would be to have a casual jacket that wasn't denim.

Mine is made from a charcoal corduroy, with a black lining.  The under collar is lined in a lightweight denim, so that it helps to lessen the bulk in the seams.  The instructions are nice and clear, and there is a video tutorial for most steps too. One little mishap occurred,  when I gut a great big gash in my lining as I was trimming seams, thankfully I had enough lining fabric scraps to cut a replacement piece. I'm very pleased with my mitered corner seams too.  

I'm looking forward to wearing this.

Tide Top

I have had the pattern for the Tide Top (formerly Kobe Top) and this luscious silk viscose fabric tucked away waiting to be used for at least three years.

Once again lockdown proved to be the perfect time to get it done.  The pattern is from New Zealand company Papercut Patterns.  It really is case of business in the front, party in the back with this design, with its simple front and surprise back view.  I love that exposed keyhole of skin, created by the dramatic pleat. 

Based on my measurements I should have made a size XS, however reading lots of blog and instagram posts on this being quite an oversized design, I sized down to XXS, and am glad I did.  It is quite a cropped design in the front, so I lengthened that by  about two inches and shortened the back shirt tail by the same. 

A lot of spray starch was used to make this fabric easier to sew,  I also  French seamed the side seams to give it a more professional finish and hopefully some longevity.  This will definitely be a hand wash only garment. Thankfully, I was fortunate enough to find some thread that co-ordinated with the colours in the fabric and a button from button jar to finish it off, seeing as we can't get out to buy any at present.

I'm really pleased I finally used this fabric and pattern, and am looking forward to warmer days and occasions to actually wear it out.

Palisade Shorts

 

When Papercut Patterns released their new collection in November, I fell in love with the trouser/short pattern - called Palisade Pants.  I loved the pocket detailing,and topstitching and the fact that it had an elastic waist and a faux fly.  No zipper - woohoo.  I bought the PDF pattern and fabric and they sat there waiting till I had time to work on them.

Just before Christmas I started sewing them, they were a relatively easy make, and Papercut Patterns instructions are very good, with diagrams as well as text.
The fabric is a linen/cotton blend, and I loved sewing with it. For the pocket lining, I used a pretty liberty fabric, I thought my shorts fabric was perhaps a little heavier than mid weight, so I did this to add a little less bulk and weight to the sides of the shorts.

Based on my measurements I was a combined S for waist and XS for hips, so I decided to make the S.   The whole way through, I was worried they were going to be to small for me. They are perhaps a little shorter than I wanted, so I did a Liberty bias binding hem (unfortunately not the same as the pocket lining) so as not to not lose too much more length.  Lesson learned -  next time I know to make them a little longer.  I could also have probably tightened the elastic a little more in the back waistband, however they are a supremely comfortable, even if the high waist takes a little getting used to after years of wearing clothes that sit on or near the hip.

I will definitely make myself another couple of pairs, maybe in a slightly lighter weight fabric, and I'm also going to invest in some Liberty with matching bias binding for future pairs too.  Now all I need is a  little more of tan so I don't blind the population with the glare coming off these legs.

Sapporo Coat

I made a coat!!

When I first fell into the rabbit hole of indie pattern designers, and discovered Papercut Patterns earlier this year, I immediately feel in love with their Sapporo Coat pattern.  I loved the diagonal pocket seam on the front and the elegant cocoon shape. This coat has been on my want to make list, but relegated down the list as being to hard.

Fast forward to winter, and cooler mornings, a workplace that doesn't have aircon/heating all the time, and I decided to be brave and make this.

I visited Draper's Fabrics in Newmarket during their birthday sale, and purchased a beautiful cherry red and grey wool/linen/cotton blend fabric, that's not to thick, not too light, still cosy feeling and a lovely patterned viscose for the lining.

I have read numerous blogs and reviews  saying that it is quite an oversized coat, so I made the smallest size available xxs/xs. I didn't feel confident enough to adjust seam allowances or alter the pattern any further this time. Cutting out the pattern seemed to take longer that the actual sewing of the garment, and I made tailor's tacks on all the markings instead of cutting notches.

Papercut Patterns have a lovely detailed little instruction booklet with all their patterns, and I did refer to these youtube tutorials for help occasionally.

Overall I am really pleased with how this has coat has turned out.  There are a couple of little maker's faults with it, but no one notices them and I'm not going to point them out.

**Photos of me by Mr J**