Simplicity 8014 - A Shirtdress

 

A little while ago I feel in love with this ready to wear shirtdress.  I loved seeing how they styled it, options I had never thought of doing with such a dress.  Unfortunately the price of the dress put it way out of my range,  So imagine my delight when I saw the exact same fabric available at a local fabric shop. I duly purchased a decent amount of the fabric, and put it aside until I found a pattern similar enough to make my version of the dress.

Simplicity 8014 (s8014) was the pattern I chose. It has 4 different options.  I chose version A.

 I did make a toile for the bodice to ensure it would fit, and then started cutting out the pieces.  I struggled with collar and collar stand, I could not for the life of me get them to fit the bodice neckline.  In the end I cut a size smaller for these two pieces.  I have since read that a lot of other makers have experienced similar problems with this aspect of the pattern .  The rest of the dress was relatively easy from this point on.  I decided to French seam all the seams, for a tidier finish as I wished to wear the dress open as a duster coat sometimes. I omitted the bodice pockets and altered the cuffs of the sleeves to more resemble the ready to wear version.

Overall I'm happy with how it has turned out.  I feel should I ever make this pattern again, I would narrow the actual collar, its quite large or make the collarless version.  I have worn it to work as a coat, styled with my jeans and a tee, and received many positive compliments, so I'm taking it a success.

Simplicity 9042

 

Way back in the depths of winter I was perusing pattern books at Spotlight looking for inspiration for a shirt.  Instead I came across a dress pattern, Simplicity 9042,  fell love with the sleeveless version,  and immediately decided to buy it.

After deliberating at a few fabric shops for the perfect colour linen, I found a beautiful soft smooth aqua linen at the fabric shop Otara.  

Fast forward to slightly warmer days of late November, I decided to make it. Version A the sleeveless option was my pick.   My measurements put me at a size 12 for the bodice and a size 16 for the waist and skirt.  Problem was my pattern only went up to a size 14.  After working out the finished size measurements I was able to grade from a 12 to 14 successfully. It also has tucks in the front and back, so I had a little bit of leeway to work with if I had needed to adjust the bodice a bit more

I've been quite spoilt making clothes from indie pattern companies, which give really detailed instructions and diagrams, I have to admit I did notice the difference using a pattern from an older established pattern company.

Overall the dress was a relatively quick and easy make, I'm really pleased with the fit and am looking forward to wafting around in it on warm summer days.

The Mallard Coat

I wear my jacket versions of this pattern a lot, and decided that I really wanted a bright funky longer version to wear casually with jeans for work.

My two jackets were made in a cotton canvas, and I liked the weight of them, so spent a few hours perusing the rolls available at Spotlight.  Eventually deciding on this sublime meadow of blooming poppies.

I knew I would never be able to get the pattern matching to work on the side seams, so have settled for cutting the fabric so it at least looks like the patterns align.  I did however spend an inordinate amount of time working out how to cut the pockets so they match, only to give up on the folded cuff, it just hurt my brain too much trying to figure that out.

Lining is a beautiful coral coloured bemsilk, and I have purchased some buttons, but am going to wear it without them first to see if they are really needed.

I'm having a bit of fun putting different combinations of jeans, tops and shoes together with this.

Pattern from New Zealand company The Sewing Revival.

Sorrento Bucket Hat

 

The Scout recently bought himself a rather colourful patterned bucket hat for hiking.  My trusty old cap looked rather boring in comparison, so I decided I needed to up the game and make myself a bucket hat for hiking too.

I had downloaded the Sorrento Bucket Hat pattern from Elbe Textiles a couple of years ago, so this was printed out.  I had a brainwave while lying in bed one night, that I could use a beautiful floral teatowel I had bought about 10 years ago, but never used, as part of the hat.  I knew I had some coordinating red drill too.

The pattern is unisex and has four sizes.  I made size M based on my head measurement, and I also used a light to midweight interfacing to give the brim a little more structure. I was surprised at how easy this hat was to make, the instructions are very clear and easy to understand too. 

I'm really pleased with the fit, and  love that it is reversible, but feel that this one may now be to beautiful to risk wearing on my hiking trips, so I may need to make myself another one. 

Burda Style - Faux Wrap Dress

 

When I received the February 2021 issue of Burda Style, I was immediately drawn to the pattern for this  faux wrap dress.  I have kept it in the back of my mind, until I found a suitable fabric.  When I saw this printed rayon from The Fabric Shop in Otara, I told the teens to buy it for me as an early birthday present, so I could get it sewn up whilst still in lockdown.

Based on my hip and bust measurements, I made my usual size 38.  I do feel I could have perhaps sized down for the skirt, because the there seemed to be an excess of fabric in the front.  Because the fabric frayed easily, I used French seams where I could, including on the waistline.  This was fortuitous, because it gave me a nice flat firm seam on the back, to sew a length of elastic onto, which helps pull the fabric to the back, instead of sliding around to the front.  It's not a dress for lifting ones arms up high in, but perfectly suitable for wining and dining.

I had a few dilemmas over hem length, and after posting a question to my Instagram story, the general consensus was shorter than the pattern suggested, which I have done.

Overall, I am pleased with the dress, I have possibly lost some of the wrap and tie detailing because of the patterned fabric, but I think that this is a dress I can wear casually or for  more dressy occasions.

Pattern details: Burda Style 101/022021

Fabric - rayon

Ms Magenta in the Garden

 

Yes, I could quite legitimately be a character in a Cluedo game in this jacket.

Last year during lockdown, I made a little cropped jacket with a pattern from Burda Style magazine. this has ended up being one of my most worn winter pieces, so I thought I'd make a plain black or charcoal version, that would go with everything.   Well plans have a habit of changing, and I ended up falling in love with a beautiful magenta cashmere/viscose blend, that I decided I could wear with all my black winter clothes instead.

Apart from a few stressful moments (due to minimal instructions)  attaching the lining hem and making the pivoted corners where the sleeves join the jacket body, it is  a lovely pattern to make up.

I have decided to forgo the button and buttonhole on this jacket and use  some of the funky/chunky brooches I own to fasten it instead.

And yes, I do still need to make a plain black trans seasonal jacket.

The Assembly Line Cuff Shirt

 

I have had this pattern for a little while now and finally made it up over the weekend. Called  'The Cuff Top" it is from Swedish company , The Assembly Line, who specialise in modern minimalistic designs.

This pattern has to be one of the most popular shirt patterns out there.  Its described by The Assembly Line as:

Easy and satisfying to make yet elegant, the Cuff Top is our most loved pattern and almost addictive to make. It has a straight fit and cap sleeves with wide elastic cuffs. The smaller size range comes with a boat neck and the larger size range has a keyhole opening with button at back.

It is a very easy make, probably the most difficult part was attaching and stretching the elastic for those lovely cuffs. My measurements were at the upper end of the XS sizing so I decided I'd make the S size. I think that I probably could have gotten away with making the XS size, it is quite a boxy fit.  I love the sleeves, but feel as thought here is a little excess fabric across the bust and under the arms.  I was also undecided as to whether the high boat neck would annoy me, but after wearing it for a full day at work including with a lanyard of keys and ID cards, I have decided it doesn't.  I have to admit I do find a boxy style of shirt quite difficult to wear with the garments in my wardrobe.  I am tempted to try making it again in the smaller size, perhaps in a slightly drapier fabric too.

Rhapsody Blouse

 

 I had been looking for another boho style shirt to make, preferable one without buttons, when I came across a new to me pattern company, Love Notions and their Rhapsody Blouse,  The blouse has numerous sleeve options and can also be lengthened into a dress.

I purchased  and downloaded the pattern and bought some lovely floral rayon fabric from Spotlight. This was probably one of the easiest PDF patterns I have assembled because it required no trimming.  My measurements put me at a size small.  

The pattern itself had very clear instructions, I learnt a new technique - the burrito roll, and bought myself a new gadget - a 1/2" bias binding maker, which certainly makes making bias binding easier.  Still a faffy thing to sew onto clothing though.  The side seams are french seamed and all the neckline is bound with the bias binding I made. The sleeves were probably the easiest to insert from any pattern I have ever made.  I suspect I muddled up two sleeve options and have  subsequently made a new version on my shirt, I ended up attaching the cuff the way I learned in making my Bonn Shirt.

Overall I think it will be a very easy to wear shirt, that will be perfect for weekends or the relaxed wardrobe I need for work, and I am sure there will be another one or two made before summer begins.

The Mallard Coat Jacket

Collar Up

So, I've made myself a new jacket.  I'm beginning to wonder if I have a slight addiction to them.

This one is the jacket length version of the Mallard Coat,  a pattern from  New Zealand company The Sewing Revival.  Initially I had seen the pattern, thought that the coat was nice and not worried about the jacket.  However that changed when I saw a version made in this exact fabric, and I decided I needed my own.  (They say imitation is the sincerest form of flattery)  After finding out  from the maker that Spotlight stocked the fabric, which is a cotton canvas from the upholstery department, I duly purchased it and lining and  downloaded the pattern.

Assembling the pattern was nice and easy, and I actually enjoyed cutting out the fabric, it was nice to have a heavier weight one to sew after the light rayons I've sewn lately. I found I did need quite sharp pins though.

The pattern itself was a pretty easy sew, it's fully lined too, in a lovely fuschia bemsilk also from Spotlight.

Instructions were detailed, with good diagrams also.  I made a straight size 10 and opted for the square collar which can be worn standing  up or folded down.  It is meant to fasten with domes or buttons, but I think I am going to leave these off.  I also omitted the large front pockets, which I would sew on the coat version.  I didn't worry about pattern matching as such, but made sure that the bottom hems were aligned when I cut out the pieces,  so it is a random placement of the floral print.  I also decided to topstitch the collar and front edges of the jacket also, to get a neater finish on the seams edges.

Photos today were taken by Miss B at Nathan Homestead, a heritage building which is used as an arts and events centre not too far from where I live. There are some lovely old trees and gardens, to walk around. It was just start to drizzle and the wind really picked up so we were limited to where we could get sheltered photos.  Luckily there is a nice little cafe  there, that we could revive ourselves in.

I'm really looking forward to wearing this, I think it will be a great layering piece for warmer spring and cooler summer days.  In fact all year round if I layer under it properly.

Happy weekending !

Bonn Shirt #3

 

My last lockdown  sewing finish is another Bonn shirt.  This time made in a lovely silky rust coloured rayon.  I chose the 3/4 sleeve version, and it is size 6C.  I was worried about sewing the collar being a rayon, but out of the three I have now made, this shirt actually was the easiest to make, the collar and sleeves went on perfectly on their first attempts.  However I had major problems with the button holes, for some reason my machine wanted to start finishing them half way through it's cycle, needless to say say there was a lot of swearing that went on with the multiple unpicking I had to do.  Eventually they all worked out.  Fortuitously I had buttons in my button jar that worked with the pale orange in the flowers.  

I love how it looks and feels to wear, and am looking forward to warmer spring days when I can indulge my inner bohemian with shirts like this.

Stay safe, stay home, wear a mask.  Kia kaha!